Naperville Gutter Repairs
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• GUTTER CLEANING
• GUTTER REPAIR
• DOWNSPOUT REPAIR
• ICE DAM REMOVAL
• SIDING REPAIR
• ROOF REPAIR
• UNDERGROUND DRAINAGE
• Office Buildings
• Retail Stores
• Interiors and Finish Outs
• Construction Safety
Here’s how to do this:
1Drill a 1/8-inch hole into the center of the dent.
2Put a washer onto a 1-inch self-tapping screw, and drive the screw into the hole.
3Gently pull the washer until the dent pops back into position.
4Remove the screw, and then use plastic aluminum filler to patch the hole.
5Lightly sand the patch, if necessary, and touch up with paint that matches the siding
Refreshing Faded Siding
The factory coating on most metal siding is very durable, but the surface can fade over time. Sometimes power washing the siding is enough to refresh it; other times the siding may need a new coat of paint.
When painting, don’t use oil/alkyd-based paints or dark colors, which can cause the metal to expand excessively. Instead, choose a light tone of high-quality 100% acrylic latex paint. Most houses look best with the slight luster of an eggshell finish.
Install aluminum J-channel
Nail J-channel against the existing soffit into the soffit framing. On corners, notch the top and backside of the J-channel the width of corner boards and cut the bottom to extend past corner boards the width of the next piece. Cut a 45-degree angle on adjoining pieces to give a mock miter appearance to corners.
The job goes smoother when you follow the correct installation sequence. First nail up the J-channel, then soffit panels, then fascia, then drip edge. It's a hassle to continually move your ladders (or scaffolding) and cutting table around the house, so concentrate on completing one overhang at a time until you get to the corners. Then you'll have to jump back and forth between gable and eave ends when you're finishing tying the corners together. The trick is to finish as much as possible on one soffit before moving all the gear.
This isn't the time to be a cheapskate. Rent scaffolding for high areas. If you're blessed with a one-story home, you can do the whole job with stepladders. But if you have loftier ambitions, like working on second-story soffits, you'd best get to the rental yard and order up section-style, steel scaffolding. Measure the height of your soffits and the rental clerks will help you put together the right parts. You'll pick up speed when you conquer the basics of soffit installation, but for the average sized house you should plan to rent the scaffolding for at least a week. Before you rent it, take care of the low soffits with ladders to save rental costs.
CAUTION! Be careful not to contact overhead power lines.
Call the power company for help with electrical lines that are near or pass through soffits or fascias.
Follow Photo 2-6 for complete step-by-step installation instructions for soffit panels. The devil is in the details. The difference between poor and quality workmanship is obvious when you examine crisp corners, clean miters and flat surfaces. Here's the important stuff:
J-channel tips: Nail J-channel in place tight against the existing soffit with 1-1/4 in. shingle nails driven into the soffit framing. Spend time on corners. You'll be looking at them for a long time.
Soffit panel tips: Use a carpenter's square to install the first soffit panel perpendicular to the house with the groove side toward the direction you're installing. Oftentimes you'll need to notch and fit the first and last panel around corners and trim. The ones in between the ends practically install themselves.
The J-channel anchors the house side soffit edge. Nail the opposite soffit edge to the bottom edge of the wooden fascia. Place one nail in each of the outer V-grooves and in the lip of the groove flange (Photo 5). For soffits that are wider than 2 ft., put a nailer across the center of the soffit (Photo 4) for more support. Nail the lath to the bottom of the wooden soffit by driving 2-in. nails into the soffit framing members.
Nailing tips: Fasten all aluminum trim with 1-1/2 in. aluminum or stainless steel nails, color-coated to match the trim. Select stainless if there's a choice. They hold better and don't bend as readily as aluminum nails. A trim nail punch (Photo 4) has a recessed sliding driver that not only holds nails while you pound (saving smashed fingers) but also allows you to set nails in deep crevices where the hammer can't reach. Buy one!
Naperville Gutter Repairs